Should climbing be an Olympic sport? Apparently last week some guy at the ‘International Federation of Sport Climbing’ (whatever that is) announced that they are putting forward a multi discipline format to the IOC in with the hope that a sugar-coated spectator-friendly approach to climbing will help them pick climbing as an Olympic sport. It […]Read more "The case against climbing becoming an Olympic sport"
My aim was to go for about a week, alone, live in a snow hole in a self-sufficient manner and climb some routes on the Tacul Triangle and, if that went well, hit up some bigger steep routes on the back of the Mt. Blanc Massif. At the time I did not really realise it […]Read more "Solo in the Winter Alps"
There are many subtle things that climbing teaches you, beyond using gear and climbing technique, that I feel can help you live a better life. As with climbing the bigger the challenge the more (and faster) you learn; there are some interesting parallels between being successful on big routes and doing well in life.Read more "What big-wall climbing teaches you about life"
This is a video put together by the talented Mr.Oli Lyon about our recent trip to Yosemite. Featuring Serenity & Sons, Astroboy, The Great Escape, Free Blast, Separate Reality & Free Rider. Supported by Rab & English Braids (static ropes). Enjoy! Highest definition recommended.Read more "VIDEO: Yosemite with Oli Lyon"
I thought I would do a short write up a bit about some routes Chris put up at Swanage last year. New routing requires you to be either very knowledgeable about a climbing area or, to be a bad-ass climber and climb the hard, more obviously unclimbed lines. Chris Weedon has the advantage of being […]Read more "Climbing new routes with Chris Weedon"
Ok – so Oli Lyon and I arrived in Yosemite for what was to be a month long trip and we started out hitting up a few shorter valley routes, a bit of sport climbing and we were struggling to adjust to the style of climbing – we needed something to toughen us up a bit. […]Read more "Free climbing on The Nose"
Living in Yosemite as a climber is not overly straight forward. Firstly you are limited to the amount of time you can stay in the valley (2 weeks) and especially Camp 4. To stay at Camp 4 when it is busy requires you to que up at the site enterence at 5am to try and […]Read more "Yosemite valley life & road tripping"
I am in the middle of training for an attempt to free climb El Capitan via the Free Rider route. The route has sections of E7 climbing which is basically as hard as I can realistically climb normally but after perhaps 4 to 5 days of climbing and general tiredness gained from living on the […]Read more "Training to free climb El Cap"
The day after climbing Chere Couloir (late Jan) the weather came in cold and generally not very pleasant, the temperature dropped to -25 and it had snowed during the night. With the weather forecast looking like it was only going to get worse we had to weigh up our options. I had hoped to go down […]Read more "Cold and pain in Chamonix"
Hydration is always a major issue when doing extended periods of exercise; dehydration can cause severe drops in physical and mental capabilities, slow you down and exacerbate the problem. There are usually guidelines quoted telling you how much water you need based on activities and conditions but what most people tend to over-look is techniques […]Read more "Five tips for hydration efficiency"